The Epicurious Wanderers!

Day 5: Beyond the Skyscrapers: Exploring Hong Kong’s Green Route

After spending time among Hong Kong’s crowded streets, soaring towers and busy harbourfront, we were ready to see a different side of the city. The Big Bus Stanley Tour—Green Route promised exactly that: a journey away from Central and around the greener, quieter southern side of Hong Kong Island.

This was still Hong Kong, but not quite the version we had experienced so far.

Setting Off from Central

Our journey began outside Central Star Ferry Pier 7, where we boarded the familiar open-top double-decker bus for a circuit through the southern side of Hong Kong Island. Well it actually started on the Kowloon side with a quick bus ride to the Star Ferry Pier, we’re getting better at letting Google Maps help plan our travel options..

Naturally, we headed upstairs. Travelling on the open deck gave us excellent views, although it also meant accepting Hong Kong’s heat, humidity and the occasional low-hanging tree branch as part of the experience.

Leaving Central, we passed the glass towers of the International Finance Centre and the constant movement around the ferry piers. It was an impressive urban beginning, but the character of the journey soon began to change.

Past the Peak and Wan Chai

The first part of the route carried us past the Peak Tram terminus, a place we had already visited during our day exploring Victoria Peak. Seeing it from the bus offered a different perspective—and reminded us that we had already survived the steep climb without rolling backwards down the hill.

The bus then continued towards the Wan Chai waterfront, passing close to the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre and Golden Bauhinia Square.

From the upper deck, we could appreciate the contrast between the modern waterfront buildings and the green hills rising behind them. Hong Kong frequently manages to place dense city development and dramatic natural scenery almost on top of each other.

A Change of Scenery

As we moved away from the central districts, the tightly packed towers gradually gave way to winding roads, wooded hills and glimpses of the sea.

This was the Hong Kong we had not necessarily expected.

The route curved along the southern side of the island, revealing beaches, sheltered bays and steep green slopes. Sitting high above the road gave us sweeping views whenever the trees briefly opened up, although photographing them from a moving bus required a combination of timing, balance and luck.

There were inevitably several photographs containing half a tree, a roadside barrier or the back of somebody else’s head.

Wandering Around Stanley

We hopped off in Stanley, where the waterfront, low-rise buildings and sea views created a noticeably more relaxed atmosphere than the crowded streets of Central or Kowloon.

We wandered down towards the pier, taking in the harbour views and watching the activity around the waterfront. The area had an easygoing feel, with boats moving across the water and the green hills providing a scenic backdrop.

Nearby, we stopped to look at Murray House, the distinctive colonial-era building overlooking the bay. Its wide verandas and historic appearance stood out against the surrounding modern development and gave the waterfront an added sense of character.

After exploring the area, we found somewhere for a quick lunch before returning to the bus. It was not a long stop, but it gave us enough time to stretch our legs, enjoy the views and appreciate Stanley’s quieter pace.

It was an attractive part of Hong Kong and a reminder that the territory is not simply one continuous wall of skyscrapers. Green hills, small bays and coastal neighbourhoods sit surprisingly close to the dense city centre.

A Beach Stop at Repulse Bay

Our next stop was Repulse Bay, one of Hong Kong Island’s best-known beaches.

We hopped off the bus and went for a wander along the sand, enjoying the broad sweep of the bay and the welcome feeling of open space. After several days surrounded by busy streets and tall buildings, it was refreshing to spend some time beside the water.

We also stopped for a cold drink, which seemed particularly sensible in the heat and humidity. We also spotted the local workers in the seasonally appropriate hi-viz workwear.

While we were enjoying the beach, however, the weather began to change.

A dark storm front moved across the bay, transforming the sky and making it clear that the calm beach weather was not going to last much longer. We made our way back to the bus stop and waited as the approaching rain became increasingly threatening.

The bus was almost perfectly timed.

Almost.

Had it arrived just two minutes earlier, we would have stayed completely dry. Instead, the rain began just before it reached us, and we were caught in the sudden downpour while making our final dash for shelter.

Once aboard, we stayed on the lower level, away from the rain and wind. The previously pleasant open-top sightseeing experience rapidly became a no go option, although as we discovered one couple did stay up top, brave souls!

At the height of the storm, rainwater collected on the upper deck and began sloshing down the bus stairs. What had started as a scenic coastal tour had become a mobile water feature.

There was little left to do but laugh, try to keep our belongings dry and watch the storm sweep across southern Hong Kong.

Ocean Park and Aberdeen—Viewed from the Bus

After Repulse Bay, we remained aboard for the rest of the Green Route.

The bus passed Ocean Park, Hong Kong’s large marine-life and amusement park. Its hillside setting and distinctive cable cars could be seen through the rain, although we were quite happy to remain under whatever limited shelter the bus provided.

We then continued through Aberdeen, historically associated with Hong Kong’s fishing community and floating population.

Fishing vessels, pleasure boats, high-rise apartments and harbour activity all shared the same stretch of water. Under clearer conditions, it would have been tempting to hop off and take a traditional sampan ride, but by this stage we had already experienced enough water for one afternoon.

We stayed firmly on the bus.

Returning to Central

From Aberdeen, the Green Route began its return towards Central.

As the skyscrapers gradually reappeared, it felt as though we were returning to a different Hong Kong from the one we had explored along the southern coast.

The weather had added an unexpected twist to the afternoon. The open-top bus that had been ideal for sightseeing earlier in the day became considerably less practical once the storm arrived, particularly when water began cascading down the stairs.

Nevertheless, the rain also made the journey more memorable. A perfectly dry bus ride would have produced some pleasant photographs, but probably not quite as good a story.

Our Verdict

The Big Bus Green Route provided an easy and enjoyable way to explore southern Hong Kong Island without having to organise several separate buses or repeatedly consult a transport map.

The open-top deck offered excellent views, Stanley gave us time to wander along the pier, visit Murray House and stop for a quick lunch, while Repulse Bay provided a relaxing place for a beach walk and a cold drink.

It was sightseeing with a little of everything: city towers, green hills, beaches, coastal roads, a rapidly approaching storm and enough rainwater inside the bus to make us briefly question whether we had boarded a boat instead.

For a day that began among the towers of Central, it ended with a much broader picture of Hong Kong—and a valuable lesson about how much difference two minutes can make.