Today we are heading higher still to visit the Colca Canyon, reputed to be twice as deep as the Grand Canyon. Not 100% sure on this, Raul has suggested that Peruvians love to exaggerate at times. As soon as we leave Arequipa we start to climb, today we will reach a maximum of just under 5000m. Altitude sickness can be a real worry at this sort of altitude.
The scenery is just spectacular, on the horizon we can see 3 volcanoes, one of them with smoke belching from its peak. There are several volcanoes in the area, some of them still active. Its quite weird to be travelling through a desert in warm sunshine with snow capped volcanoes in clear view.
As we pass the town of Yura, the location of a major cement works, we encounter some industrial action. To run tourist services you need a license, however some operators try to operate without one. Today the illegal operators are blockading the road to protest about needing a license. Seems crazy to us that they dont just obtain the permit, but as Raul explains to do so they need their vehicle at a better standard, so for them it can be cheaper to operate illegally. Their protest seems to be a rolling blockade where they drive along in convoy for about 5k then turn around and repeat the process. Accompanying them seems to be half the police force of Arequipa.
As we pass through 4000m we stop to take pictures of the vicuna, a native camel. They are related to Llama’s and Alpacas but are the wild members of the family. They are quite easy to spot along the roadside unlike their cousin the guanaco which is a little more shy. From here it almost seems you could reach out and touch the snow covered peaks.
At Chasquipampa we have to pay a toll to continue, this is a frequent occurence in Peru. Here the road divides, to the right it heads to Cusco and Puno, we head left to Colca Canyon. Soon after this we stop for tea, not just any tea though. We have cocoa tea, it helps with altitude sickness, although at present Helen and I are both doing fine. You can feel the shortness of breathe and the dryness of the air but it’s not impeding us.
As we climb higher we have another new experience, chewing cocoa leaves. You roll 5 or so together with an alkalizer, this adds sweetness, then place the roll into your cheek and chew. It has a taste similar to a green tea, only maybe more bitter. Its not considered a drug as you dont have enough. After 10 minutes or so of chewing you can spit it out, or you can continue chewing and swallow. The locals will chew cocoa leaves all day as they work to give them energy.
We’ve passed through the highest point on our travels 4910m. If we’d crossed the road and used the higher toilet we would have pee’d at 5000m. Where we were was good enough for me.
Carrying on we come to the town of Chivay, nestled deep in the Colca Valley. It’s a beautiful sight to see the town and its farm lands surrounded by the steep valley walls.as we enter thevyown we pay an entrance fee, even Peruvians coming here need to pay although at a lower rate. First stop is lunchat a tourist restaurant, it’s a buffet of local foods including alpaca. Quite a tasty meat, very low in fat and cholesterol, i have to try it.
Then it was was on to our hotel, the Pozo del Cielo, which sits on a hill overlooking town. The rooms are simple but comfortable, the beds have electric blankets which i feel we will need tonight. Hopefully the upstairs neighbors are quite as the ceilings are low and their footsteps echo in our room. Time will tell….
We’re heading out soon for a swim in the local hot springs, again seems strange to be able to do this at 3000m with snow visible around us.
Ok, so just back from our dip in the springs. So amazing, 37C hot mineral springs, just so relaxing to just sit and watch the clouds pass overhead.