Today’s game drive was so amazing, a once in a lifetime experience according to Liam.
The weather was slightly overcast, a hint of rain in the air when we set out just after 6am. We drove north as there was a possible leopard sighting to investigate, all the guides use radio to share sightings and news.
We picked up the trail but it vanished near the airstrip, so we meandered around the bush tracks looking for other game. The we heard a male lion had been spotted not too far from us and the chase was on. When ever a sighting is made and you head to an area the speed picks up to try to ensure you don’t miss out. Once you reach the approximate area it’s a case of radio messages and stopping to listen for other vehicles to help narrow the exact spot down. Then once very close by you look for the other vehicles.
We found the lion in bush just off the road, he was amazing! A huge male, with a big mane, possibly around 250 kg. just as with our leopard he wasn’t too perturbed by our presence and allowed us to photograph him for quite a while before he moved off. As he seems to be alone in this area he wasn’t overly advertising his presence with growls etc but was scent marking as he moved. Again as he moved on we followed him for quite sometime watching as he marked territory and sniffed the air. As he walked and we followed we again felt we could just reach out touch him, not a bright idea, you could sense his power just looking at him.
We then heard there are leopards in the area as well. This can be an interesting situation, both will attack the other to defend their young or their territory. Being big predators they have little to fear except each other. The male was an amazing creature, so big, so powerful looking and so majestic. We’ve now seen the big 5 in only three game drives. Many other people have been on countless drives and not seen them.
Suddenly Liam is off at quite high speed, we were told we were about to witness something special, a once in a lifetime moment. We were told a group of lions had a leopard cornered up a tree. This is special and the way we arrived there was amazing. Normally you meander along the tracks at 20km or so, now we are flying along at 70-80km, this must be special. We slide around corners and leap over the bumps. Everyone is excited but hanging on as it would be easy to fall out the back!
When we reach the spot it seems the leopard is not up the tree but sadly has been attacked by the lions and is cornered. Even more tragic is the realisation it’s the leopard we tracked last night. It seems it made a kill nearby and that attracted the lions to it. The lions apparently have cubs nearby and fearing the leopard may attack and kill the cubs they have attacked it. In an attempt to escape it tries to climb a nearby tree, the lions launch at it, one of them clubbing it away with its huge paws, another biting at its neck and rear flank. The leopard stages a brutal fight to survive but the lions have overpowered it and it looks like it is fatally wounded. Four on one make it favour the lions, but the leopard gave it his all. The lions though don’t finish the job, they seem worried by the prospect of being injured themselves and move on, probably back to their cubs. The noise may have attached other predators and they can’t risk the cubs. We stay to watch the leopard, hoping it will survive, it’s breathing is very erratic. It seems to calm down and just watches use as we sit in the landrover. Everyone is upset by what we have witnessed, this is the kill or be killed mantra of the bush at its brutal worst. The leopard attempts to stand but is unable and lies back down. Sadly we move on in search of some happier sights, Liam is not allowed to interfere and end it’s suffering it must be left to fend for itself. Not longer after we hear from another group that the leopard has tried to stand and it looks like one of its back legs is broken, it won’t survive long on three legs. Hopefully it’s not broken just muscle damage and it may recover.
As we drive along we saw several giraffes in the scrub on the road side and the usual impala and warthog. As we prepared to stop for morning coffee we came across a group of wildebeest grazing on open grass land. They didn’t seem at all concerned by us, in fact when we stopped further along from them and had coffee they came and stood not 20m from us and watched us. Now whose watching who?
After coffee we again meandered through the scrub looking for more game, we did see some baboons but they don’t hang around to be photographed. Arrival back at the lodge signifies breakfast time and a time to look at each other’s photos and videos from this morning. The leopard versus lion encounter is all that we talk about. Everyone knows it’s the way if the bush but it is a harsh thing to observe. Majestic savagery, the fight to survive.
This post can’t adequately capture the emotion and feeling from this morning, it’s so hard to put into words what we experienced. As Liam said this is a once in a lifetime moment, not necessarily a happy moment but one that will never be forgotten, and nor should it be. We are all on this earth for but a short time and need to value very moment we have as if it’s our last, you never know when your will to survive will come up against s stronger will to survive.
Hi Simon and Helen. Happy anniversary and birthday. Well written Simon, at first I was excited for you, reading about the big five and their lack of concern having you so close. Now I am sad thinking about that leopard and what the outcome may be. Great to read your blog, looking forward to more. I am making the team sit and read your blog each day as we find the time.
Neil